Our definitive guide to what makes Irish pubs great
If there’s one thing that’s guaranteed to ignite an Irish person’s passion, it’s a discussion of what makes a good (Irish) pub.
The pub is very important to us and absolutely in the country has an opinion on it. Whether it’s your local ‘old man’ pub or your more modern equivalent (tapas, anyone?), you’ll likely defend your favourite to the death.
With that in mind, we’ve cautiously put together a list of what makes an Irish pub special and added a few good examples in at the bottom. Feel free to agree or disagree on our choices and let us know what we missed.
•There’s absolutely no music allowed unless it’s a live trad session and the TV being on is still a controversial topic.
•There’s THAT regular in the corner who’s been coming there so long it’s very likely he’s just become part of the pub’s structure and if you removed him the whole place would come crashing down.
•Weird, arbitrary rules, often made-up on the spot (see the Hi-B below).
•Your only option for food are Taytos - red or, at a push, salt and vinegar. If you’re lucky, some places might do you a toastie.
•There's an slightly incongruous business operating out of the side room - cobblers, hardware store, undertakers etc.
•The Perfect Pint - it always tastes better in your local.
•The decor - wood, varnish, smoke, old photos - and ideally a slightly sticky floor and disgusting toilets.
•The barmen/women - sullen but with a heart of gold. We wouldn't change ye for the world.
•The craic is mighty. Why? You can’t put your finger on it but there’s magic in the air.
•The snug - a key element. Check out this beautiful gallery of snugs from around the country here.
Obviously not all pubs fit the above criteria but all the best ones have some hint of madness to them.
Here are some of the best examples of the quintessential Irish pubs with heaps of character.
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This tiny but infamous Cork bar has been in the same family since 1924 and its proprietor Brian O’ Donnell is renowned for his impatience with chancers or just about anyone who he deems unfit for his premises. The rules are as legendary as they are changeable - for one, no mobile phones ESPECIALLY texting. He’s barred so many people, there’s even a t-shirt.
Here’s a brilliant story that was posted to the Hi-B’s website that describes the average trip to the Cork institution.
“You approach the bar slowly with a wary air, no sudden moves, do the genetically inbuilt Irish way of getting the barman’s attention by staring at his face to catch his eyes, ask for a couple of pints, wait with held breath having witnessed someone else being barred earlier in the evening and then back away with your drinks, maintaining eye contact, exhaling slowly."
"When the fateful day came of being thrown out, I can’t even remember why it happened and there probably wasn’t even a logical reason but we went in again after and no one batted an eyelid so it didn’t matter a whit. My wife is jumping in to tell me she and two of her friends were barred as well so there seems to be a demented joy in being chucked out of this bar."
- Brian O’Donoghue (Hi-B patron)
Definitely one for the Bucket list - and maybe even try get yourself barred.
If you’ve ever happened to need a belt fixed while you’re in the pub (you never know), then this is the place for you.
Dick Macks in Dingle is named after the current proprietor’s father - the late leather-craftsman Richard MacDonnell - and it still has a small leather shop on the premises. The walls are covered in bits and bobs, family memorabilia and old photos and books.
It’s small, has an old-fashioned snug and is widely considered the traditional Irish pub.
From Dick Mack’s website:
“You haven't been to a real pub til you have visited Dick Mack's and met the strangers of the area.... and shared beautiful deep conversations with them about everything from beer to Cuban politics… Strangers you will never see again. No exchange of emails or facebooks or any of that nonsense... Just genuine conversation and genuine fun…”
Outside the pub are star slabs showing the names of the famous people who have visited - Sean Connery, Robert Mitchum, and Julia Roberts, to name but a few.
And the current owner, Oliver McDonnell? The of a character.
Also points for this:
The pub has been in the Kavanagh family for SIX generations. While officially called John Kavanagh’s, it is widely known as “The Gravediggers” as it’s next to Glasnevin cemetery. This truly Victorian pub has seen a lot of history - it even has its own ghost. Legend has it this friendly spirit of an old man with a gold chain and a white beard is a family ancestor.
While they’re well-known for their traditional coddle, they also now serve tapas. How modern!
We wonder if the ghost is partial to some patatas bravas to go with his bottle of Guinness.
For more photos and information about the Gravediggers, go here.
If you want to speak a cúpla focal along with your pint, this basement pub on Harcourt Street is for you. English-speakers are welcome too but its probably best you at least to get into the ‘spiorad’ (spirit - according to Google Translate) of things.
As one online commenter put it:
“You'll get served a lot quicker at the bar if you can order in Irish, as one barman in particular tends to ignore those pleading for a drink in English, regardless of how long they've been there, until all of the Gaeilgeorí have been served, so repeat after me: Buidéal Guinness, más é do thoil é”
For more information, check out their Facebook ‘leathanach’.
We’ve heard the name of this pub pop up regularly but we haven’t been able to find out much about it online. Among the rumours is that the clock stopped in 1913 and has never been started since. It also closes everyday at 6pm.
Enlighten us, please. Is it still there? Are the Gents toilets really outside the pub?
We need to go on a road trip to Tralee.
Nestled high in the mountains between Cork and Kerry, the Top of the Coom has been in the area since 1846 and is the highest pub in Ireland - or so they say.
In May 2012, it burned to the ground with fifth-generation owners Tim and Eileen Creedon and their children - who lived over the premises -losing all their possessions.
It recently reopened and caused a bit of a fuss online when this video of some regulars - and their lambs - went viral. It even made it onto the BBC programme “Have I Got News For You”.
This is baaanter of the highest order (we crack ourselves up sometimes).
This is only the smallest tip of the biggest iceberg - there are weird, wonderful and distinctly Irish pubs out there.
And, of course, the times are changing and now we are spoilt for choice when it comes to the variety of pubs on offer. There are more and more pubs offering craft beer and good quality (and good value) food from all over the world and the new ones deserve as much support as the old.
So what do you think makes a great Irish pub? The punters, the decor or that indefinable magic known as the craic?
