Wine with Leslie Williams
I wrote last week about calories in wine and gave an approximate figure of 90 calories per glass (around the same as for Coke).
In the meantime however, a good friend in the wine world, Niav McNamara, gave me precise figures which I thought might be useful to share. Niav calculates that you should multiply the percentage alcohol by 40.95 and the grams of residual sugar (RS) per litre by three and add the two figures together.
Given that most bottles of wine contain less than 5g of RS the second figure is not one you need to concern yourself with unless drinking dessert wine — a bottle of Sauternes could have as much as 150g per litre which would add 450 calories while a bottle of German Auslese would contain less than 20g per litre.
Niav works with John Shiel of Shiel’s Londis on Yellow Walls Road in Malahide, a bit of a hidden gem. Among a few unusual wines I picked up there on a visit last week was a bottle of Thomas Schmitt Riesling Auslese 2011 and we worked out that this had around 395Kcal (at 8.5% ABV and 15g of RS) significantly less than a bottle of standard Bordeaux which would contain approximately 550Kcal — it is all about the ABV.
The Schmitt Auslese was delicious by the way, bottled under screwcap so pristine and fresh with no tertiary or petrol aromas — lemon zest, apple drop aromas, sweet pear fruits and a lingering mineral freshness. The sweetness is fairly gentle so this is one for a light fruit dessert or perhaps for serving with some mature Mossfield, Coolea or Comté cheese.
I like that Shiel’s has proper separation between the off-licence and the grocery, but mostly, I recommend visiting for John’s independent mind which is evident from the unusual mix of craft beers and wines. Mixed in with the Sauvignons, Malbecs and Merlots you can find aged Australian Shiraz (Chateau Tahbilk 1933 Vineyard Shiraz from the 1994 vintage) and Hugel’s Jubilee Riesling and Pinot Gris.
I spotted Errazuriz Don Maximano 1998 (€60), Santa Rita Floresta Syrah Merlot 1999 (€30), Chateau Lanessan 2000 (€43) and Chateau Guiraud 2001 at the (almost) bargain price of €65. John’s recommended wines are Passori Appassimento at €10 and Beronia Grand Reserva Rioja at €24.99.
No. 21 Group, O’Donovans, Shiels Londis, Vintry, NOffLA Independents
Both the red and white version of this wine are worth trying and both are 12% ABV if you are watching calories. This is a blend of local grapes Arinto and Fernâo Pires with bright crisp citrus and aromas with floral notes in the background — perfect for fish dishes and light pasta. The red meanwhile has ripe red supple fruits and would work a little chilled.
Stockists: JJ O’Driscolls, Shiel’s Londis Malahide, Drink Store D7, Red Island Skerries, www.wineonline.ie
A Mano is a collaboration between Mark Shannon from California and his Northern Italian partner Elvezia Sbalchiero. The Negroamaro is packed with black cherries and prunes and has a lingering spice tinged finish. For an extra Euro the A Mano Bianco is also excellent with rich floral fruits.
World Wide Wines, Shiel’s Malahide, O’Donovans, Vanilla Grape, Independents
Rosé is not just for summer, it matches rich curries and spicy Moroccan Tagines better than all but the fruitiest red wines. Bright sweet cherry and red fruit aromas, supple and fruity on the palate with a crisp fresh finish. This is from the Monastrell grape from the producers of Hécula.
JJ O’Driscolls, Shiel’s Londis Malahide, Drink Store D7, Red Island Skerries, www.wineonline.ie
Susumaniello is a rare old Puglian grape variety, this is the only version I’ve tried. The wine pours a rich dark purple colour with aromas of violets, blueberries and chocolate with a touch of allspice. Supple and rich on the palate with crunchy integrated tannins and a lingering dried berry character on the finish – a touch of the warm south to cheer up January.
Mannings Ballylickey, 1601 Kinsale, World Wide Wines, The Corkscrew, Shiel’s Londis, Terroirs.
Valdespiño is one of the oldest of all Sherry houses with roots in the region dating back to Crusader times. This Very Old Sherry (VOS) has at least 20 years ageing in a Solera dating to 1842 with just 10% sweet PX added. Dense fig and smoky treacle aromas, rich, complex, and lingering.
Shiel’s Londis Malahide, World Wide Wines, The Corkscrew, La Touche, Mitchells, www.wineonline.ie
Probably my favourite white wine from the Southern Hemisphere. Made by Kevin Judd who created Cloudy Bay this has white peach and creamy lemon aromas, textured complex (almost oily) white fruits on the palate, this is supple and focused with a long long chalky finish.
