What to expect from fashion month as physical shows make a real comeback

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What To Expect From Fashion Month As Physical Shows Make A Real Comeback
Richard Quinn runway at London Fashion Week
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By Prudence Wade, PA

Like so many major events, the pandemic has put fashion month in jeopardy for nearly the past two years.

The fashion world was used to big biannual catwalk shows – then all of a sudden, brands had to switch to online presentations and figure out a new way of doing things. Last season saw a tentative return to the IRL catwalk – but that was once again put into question with the surge of the Omicron variant.

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However, with the peak seemingly over, fashion houses seem keen for a return to normality now – and that means we could be set for some pretty over-the-top shows this season.

Here’s everything you need to know about the upcoming fashion month in New York, London, Milan and Paris…

New York

When is it? 11-16 February

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What should you look out for? Experimental label Eckhaus Latta is celebrating its 10-year anniversary, so we’re expecting an explosive show full of unexpected models (in the past the brand has recruited chefs, artists, musicians and more to stomp the runway).

While some designers are sticking to digital shows, it seems most are going physical – including Christian Siriano (who can always be relied on for diversity and big gowns), Michael Kors, Coach, Tory Burch and Brandon Maxwell.

Anything missing from the schedule? Thom Browne won’t be showing his new collection at NYFW, but he’ll stay in the city – instead, he’ll show on April 29, a few days before the Met Gala.

Tom Ford was meant to close NYFW but has had to delay his collection due to Covid-related issues affecting the supply chain. Other big names missing include Rodarte, Pyer Moss, Marc Jacobs and Oscar de la Renta.

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London

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When is it? February 18 – 22.

What should you look out for? While Omicron might have plunged LFW into doubt, it looks to be going ahead with a hybrid schedule – but most of the big names placing their bets on a physical show.

Most of the names we know and love are showing – Simone Rocha, David Koma, 16Arlington, Richard Quinn, Halpern – as well as the more up-and-coming brands London is known for, such as Ahluwalia and Nensi Dojaka.

Anything missing from the schedule? No word on whether Burberry is showing – but the brand has been known to surprise us in the past, so perhaps will put together a last-minute presentation.

Milan

When is it? February 22 – 28.

What should you look out for? One of the biggest shows of MFW will undoubtedly be Gucci – the brand has gone off-schedule for the past few years, so no doubt creative director Alessandro Michele will return to Milan with a typically theatrical performance. All eyes will also be on Bottega Veneta, with a new creative director at the helm – Matthieu Blazy is now in charge, after Daniel Lee’s shock resignation in late 2021.

And with the usual suspects such as Prada, Fendi, Dolce & Gabbana all on the schedule, Milan won’t be short of beautiful new collections to look at.

Anything missing from the schedule? Not really – of all the fashion weeks, Milan has one of the most robust showings of top designers.

Paris

When is it? February 28 – March 8.

What should you look out for? Coming in last, Paris tends to be the biggest of all four fashion weeks – and this season is set to be no different. Off-White kicks off proceedings on February 28, and it will no doubt be an emotional tribute to the late designer Virgil Abloh – and will surely be packed full of his celebrity friends.

Aside from all usual suspects (Dior, Chanel, Louis Vuitton, etc), there are a couple of surprises to watch out for. Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen’s cult brand The Row will be in Paris (the New York-based brand was last in the capital in 2015), and design collective Vetements will be showing the first collection for new brand Vtmnts.

Anything missing from the schedule? Not really – all the heavy hitters are there, and most are doing in-person shows. WWD reports PFW as having 95 brands on the schedule, with 37 doing a physical show, and 13 opting for a digital presentation.

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