Trend watch: Fresh and fancy foundation formulas
Fresh, light and very fancy, this year’s cutting-edge foundation formulas make every day a good skin day. reports.
2018 may be the year facial contouring rescinds, if the new wave of water-based, weightless foundations is any agent.
This complexion trend is about looking fresh and clean while amplifying good natural skin. Common product claims include perfect shade-matching, a filmy second-skin texture and hours of cake-free, fade-proof wear.
At fashion weeks for this season, we also saw a move away from true-matte finishes towards more radiant or naturally dewy looks that’s now migrated to counters.
There are some caveats for investing in this attractive category.
Many options contain broad-spectrum UV protection, for example, but this should not be a selling point in your mind because you will have to apply loads to attain adequate coverage. No-one seeking weightless foundation wants this. You may also have to factor building-time into your routine.
“Only apply foundation where you need it” is probably the most repeated makeup tip from artists but real life often demands base all over the face.
Water-rich foundations have light-to-medium coverage so need setting and light layering if you have rosacea or pigmentation issues. It is also worth remember that the sebum-sapping ingredients in ultra long-wear choices are dehydrating when worn all-day every day. Otherwise, this really is a charming new development in foundation technology.
Any age or skin-type can try it and the following formulas are the best so far.
Giorgio Armani Beauty’s packaging — sleek, light and minimal — is rare in luxury makeup but has great practical value.
This Korean-inspired cushion-compact, for example, makes liquid foundation so much more purse-friendly than a trinket-y jar. The brand goes so far as to call its makeup ‘essence’ in this context, as though it is merely infuses the mesh interior (“Full makeup? Me? Never!”).
I guess it emerges that way, when you apply some pressure, and also it goes on so lightly it feels even less substantial than serum. Fans of Korean beauty will know ‘essence’ is the water-light skincare step our Seoul sister’s apply before serum.
The formula does contain hyaluronic acid and litchi extract, both antioxidants, so it is has some skincare chops.
The main sell is the look, of course, which is in this case luminous-matte and semi-sheer but easily built. It does not crease and, while it may require a 4pm touch-up, is both tenacious and perfecting enough to forgo powder.
The sole bug is its six-shade range, positively pauce in this age of inclusivity. This product is, however, limited-edition.
Now, people with dry skin are rightly put off by terms like ‘oil-free’ and ‘weightless’ on a makeup bottle.
“It is January. Why are all these brands offering me the makeup equivalent of a camisole? I want comfort, cashmere, some protection for pity’s sake!” they say, tossing their scarves across their faces like indignant Paddington bears. But The Ordinary, if you hadn’t heard, is given to defying expectations.
They are most famous for useful ingredients in high concentrations at supermarket prices but skin-perfecting makeup is another forte. A base of water, coconut and silicones helps this foundation both skip over imperfections and distribute pigment well enough to conceal them. The formula also contains quite a bit of Vitamin E, which is a natural redness-reducer. This is a comfortable, moisture-binding serum that comes in 21 shades.
The brand calls the finish demi-matte and most shades are true to that but if you have porcelain skin there is an option called ‘Very Fair 1.0 NS’ that has pearl highlights, which I find very flattering.
Rimmel does great budget foundations. If you are loyal to their lovely Match Perfection Foundation, €10.49, and would like to try a lighter texture you will find a corresponding shade in this Lasting Finish line, as well as a similar finish.
The formula is irritant-free but best suits normal-to-oily types as the long-wearing ingredients sponge up sebum like invisible blotting paper. It is great value for money, especially as the bottle is quite substantial and you won’t need much per application.
The pump is prone to leaking so best keep it in plastic if you keep your makeup in your bag.
Bobbi Brown’s been doing the naked skin-but-better thing since the Nineties so arguably had something of a head-start in developing this. I am not sure how they manage to make it so brightening with zero shimmer — some mysterious mix of marine sugar can and minerals —but the pigment is genius, incorporating both colour correction and healthful luminosity.
There are small amounts of Vitamnins C and E in the mix, for natural brightening This really is one for combination or oily types as it will showcase any hint of dryness, but if your skin needs balance and you can pick a colour-match from 30 you are set for the day.
This makeup is so adherent it won’t get off your face when you want it to, at least not without an oil cleanser.
I love the original Diorskin Forever Liquid Foundation, €48.50, a very comforting full-coverage base with a radiant finish, but would not recommend up and switching to this unless you really need the long-wear element.
The fresh, radiant look of this is just as lovely and full coverage is rare in such light makeup but I cannot think keeping it on for hours is a good thing unless your skin produces sebum like a teenager’s.
That said, it is as comfortable as stockings. It stays smooth around the eyes and requires no additional concealer or powder.
This one was clearly conceived for travel as it sets almost instantly and the bottle is also weightless. Just don’t get caught without access to olive or coconut oil or you may be wearing it a week later.
