How to cook with edible flowers

Darina Allen shares some of her favourite recipes with edible flowers

How to cook with edible flowers

Darina Allen shares some of her favourite recipes with edible flowers

Corn flowers, primroses, forget-me-nots, day lilies, marigolds, roses, lavender, nasturtiums, dahlias, chrysanthemum…

I love to scatter flower petals over desserts, cakes and biscuits. Judiciously used they also add a little magic to starter plates and salads.

Of course the flowers must be edible but a wide variety of blossoms are, as well as the flowers of broad beans, scarlet runners, sun chokes, peas and sea kale, but remember they will eventually grow into the vegetables so pick sparingly.

The canary yellow zucchini and squash blossoms are also irresistible not just to tear into salads but also to dip into a tempura batter — stuffed or unstuffed.

Even the cheery little nasturtium flower with its peppery taste are both cute and delicious stuffed with a little herby cream cheese. We also chop the gaily coloured nasturtium blossom and add them into a lemony butter to serve with a piece of spanking fresh fish.

Fennell and dill flowers have a delicious liquoricey, aniseed flavour. They too add magic to fish dishes and broths but also to some pastas and of course salads. Dahlia flowers are gorgeous sprinkled over salads, I particularly love them scattered over an heirloom tomato or potato salad. Thyme flowers are various shades of blue and purple — we love to use them to garnish little pots of pate or to sprinkle over a bowl of silky onion and thyme leaf soup.

Sage and hyssop flowers are even more intensely blue and they two give a vibrant and perky flavour to salads and summer vegetable dishes.

The kombuchas and water kefirs that we serve at the school every day also include edible flowers which introduce the yeast of the area into the gut enhancing drink.

This freekeh salad makes a wonderful vehicle for a variety of edible flowers. Pomegranate molasses is now widely available and now has become a favourite ingredient for those of us who have developed a passion for Middle Eastern flavours.

Pan-grilled Fish with Vietnamese Cucumbers and Fennell Flowers 

Pan-grilling is one of my favourite ways to cook fish, meat and vegetables. Square or oblong cast-iron pan-grills can be bought in virtually all good kitchen shops and are a ‘must have’ as far as I am concerned. In this recipe you can use almost any fish — mackerel, grey sea mullet, cod, sea bass, haddock — provided it is very fresh.

Serves 8-10

8 x 175g (6oz) of very fresh fish fillets

  • Seasoned flour
  • Small knob of butter (soft)
  • Vietnamese cucumbers

  • 4 cucumbers
  • salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • Fish sauce (Nam pla)
  • 2.5cm (1 inch) piece of ginger, peeled and cut into fine julienne
  • 2 tablespoons palm sugar
  • 1-2 Serrano or Jalapeno or fresh Thai chillies
  • juice of 2 or 3 limes
  • fistful of fresh mint sprigs
  • fistful basil sprigs
  • thinly sliced scallions or onion
  • Accompaniment

  • Fennell flowers
  • Heat the pan grill. Dry the fish fillets well. Just before cooking but not earlier dip the fish fillets in flour which has been well seasoned with salt and freshly ground pepper. Pass the floured fillet between the palms of your hands to shake off the excess flour and then spread a little soft butter evenly over the entire surface of the flesh side, as though you were buttering a slice of bread rather meanly. When the grill is hot but not smoking, place the fish fillets butter side down on the grill; the fish should sizzle as soon as they touch the pan. Turn down the heat slightly and let them cook for 4 or 5 minutes (time depends on the thickness of the fish). Turn over and cook on the other side until crisp and golden. Serve on a hot plate with the Vietnamese cucumbers and fresh herbs on the side.

    Sprinkle a few fennel flowers on top.

    Tip: Be sure to wash and dry the grill-pan each time between batches.

    Vietnamese Cucumbers

    Peel the cucumbers, cut them lengthwise in half, and remove the seeds with a spoon if they are large. Slice the cucumbers into thickish half-moons and put them in a large bowl. Season with salt and pepper, sprinkle lightly with fish sauce, then add the ginger and palm sugar. Toss well, and let the cucumbers sit for 5 minutes or so.

    Add a good spoonful of the chopped Serrano or Jalapeno chillies (seeds removed, if desired) or finely slivered Thai chillies. Squeeze over the juice of 2 limes and toss again, then cover and refrigerate until ready to serving.

    Just before serving add a fistful of roughly chopped mint and basil leaves. Taste and adjust the seasoning with lime juice as well as salt and pepper. Garnish with thinly sliced scallions or paper-thin slices of onion.

    Heritage Tomato Saladwith Flowers, Za’atar and Freekeh 

    Serves 4

  • 100g (3½ oz) freekeh or farro sea salt
  • extra virgin olive oil
  • 1 tablespoon pomegranate molasses
  • 12 cherry tomatoes
  • 2 teaspoons za’atar
  • Lots of edible flowers, perhaps marigolds, cornflowers, violas, rocket flowers, or borage (remove furry calyx from behind the flower), chive or coriander or fennel blossom depending on what’s available
  • Put the freekeh or farro into a saucepan with cold water, bring to the boil and simmer for 4-6 minutes, depending on the freekeh (some are broken grains, others whole). It should be soft but still slightly chewy. Drain, season with salt and drizzle with extra virgin olive oil and toss. Taste and correct the seasoning.

    In a little bowl, whisk the pomegranate molasses with 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil to emulsify.

    Cut the tomatoes into wedges. Season with salt and a little extra virgin olive oil. Lay the tomatoes on a plate, scatter with the freekeh, then sprinkle over the za’atar and edible flowers. Finish the plate by drizzling with the pomegranate molasses mixture. Taste and add a few more sea salt flakes if necessary.

    Onion, Thyme Leafand Thyme Flower Soup 

    Serves 6 approximately

  • 450g 1lb (1lb) chopped onions
  • 225g (8oz) chopped potatoes
  • 45g (1½oz) butter
  • 1-2 tsp fresh thyme leaves
  • salt and freshly ground pepper
  • 1 litre (1¾pints) homemade chicken stock or vegetable stock
  • 150ml (5fl oz) cream or cream and milk mixed, approx.
  • Garnish

  • fresh thyme leaves and thyme or chive flowers
  • a little whipped cream (optional)
  • Peel and chop the onions and potatoes into small dice, about one third inch. Melt the butter in a heavy saucepan. As soon as it foams, add the onions and potatoes, stir until they are well coated with butter. Add the thyme leaves, season with salt and freshly ground pepper. Place a paper lid on top of the vegetables directly to keep in the steam. Then cover the saucepan with a tight fitting lid and sweat on a low heat for 10 minutes approx. The potatoes and onions should be soft but not coloured. Add the chicken stock, bring it to the boil and simmer until the potatoes are cooked, 5-8 minutes approx. Liquidise the soup and add a little cream or creamy milk. Taste and correct the seasoning if necessary.

    Serve in soup bowls or in a soup tureen garnished with a blob of whipped cream, sprinkle with thyme leaves and thyme or chive flowers.

    Honey and Lavender Ice-Cream 

    Honey and lavender is a particularly delicious marriage of flavours. We make this richly scented ice cream when the lavender flowers are in bloom in early summer. Lavender is at its most aromatic just before the flowers burst open. Serve it totally alone on chilled plates and savour every mouthful.

    Serves 8-10

  • 250ml (9floz) milk
  • 450ml (16floz) cream
  • 40 sprigs of fresh lavender or less of dried (use the blossom end only)
  • 6 organic egg yolks
  • 175ml (6floz) pure Irish honey, although Provencal lavender honey would also be wonderful
  • Garnish

  • Sprigs of lavender or frosted lavender
  • Put the milk and cream into a heavy bottomed saucepan with the lavender sprigs, bring slowly to the boil and leave to infuse for 15-20 minutes. This will both flavour and perfume the cream deliciously. Whisk the egg yolks, add a little of the lavender flavoured liquid and then mix the two together. Cook over a low heat until the mixture barely thickens and lightly coats the back of a spoon (careful it doesn’t curdle). Melt the honey gently, just to liquefy, whisk into the custard. Strain out lavender heads.

    Chill thoroughly and freeze, preferably in an ice-cream maker.

    Serve garnished with sprigs of fresh or frosted lavender.

    Frosted Lavender

    Frosted lavender sprigs are adorable and delicious to use for garnish. Pick lavender in dry weather while the flowers are still closed. Whisk a little egg white lightly, just enough to break it up, brush the entire lavender sprig with the egg white, sprinkle all over with sieved, dry castor sugar. Lay on a sheet of silicone paper. Allow to dry and crisp in a warm spot — hot press or near a radiator until dry and crisp. Store in an airtight tin.

    Honey Mousse with Lavender Jelly 

    JR Ryall, head pastry chef at Ballymaloe House, loves to make this dessert in June using the lavender from the walled garden at Ballymaloe, just before the flowers open. Using only the best quality local Irish honey will make this feather light mousse truly unforgettable.

    Serves 6

    For the honey mousse

  • 1 egg
  • 1 teaspoon gelatine
  • 1½ tablespoons cold water
  • 350ml (12 fl oz) whipping cream
  • 75g (30z) best quality local Irish honey
  • 1 tbsp Grand Marnier, to taste
  • For the lavender jelly

  • 6 fresh lavender heads
  • 225ml (8fl.oz) water
  • 110g (4oz) sugar
  • 1½ teaspoon gelatine
  • 2½ tablespoon cold water
  • Whip the cream to soft peaks and keep in the fridge. Sprinkle the gelatine over the cold water in a small bowl and allow to ‘sponge’. Once fully rehydrated, melt the gelatine by placing the bowl over hot but not boiling water. Add the honey and Grand Marnier to the melted gelatine and stir until the mixture is an even consistency and allow to return to room temperature. Whisk the egg to a pale mousse, using an electric mixer, then gently fold the mousse into the whipped cream. Now fold the cream mixture into the honey and gelatine in three stages. Pour the mousse into its serving dish and chill until set. Now prepare the lavender jelly.

    Put the sugar and the 225ml/8fl.oz water in a heavy bottomed saucepan and bring slowly to the boil. Once the syrup has boiled remove the saucepan from the heat and drop in the lavender heads. Enjoy the wonderful lavender perfume as the syrup cools to room temperature. Meanwhile sprinkle the gelatine over the 2½ tablespoon cold water in a small bowl and allow to ‘sponge’. Once fully rehydrated, melt the gelatine by placing the bowl over hot but not boiling water. Strain the cooled syrup through a sieve, add to the melted gelatine and mix well. Arrange 6 lavender heads on top of the set mousse and carefully spoon over enough liquid jelly to cover the lavender and chill until the jelly is set.

    Hot tips 

    The first of the new season honey has been extracted in the past few weeks, each with its own unique flavour. I’ve been loving Niall Coffey’s East Cork Honey, Patricia and Noel Love’s honey from Knockeen, from Skibbereen Farmers’ Market also Philip Little’s The Little Apple Company, Pilltown, Kilkenny to mention just a few. Support your genuine local beekeeper — there’s a lot of fake honey out there. Report any concerns you may have to the FSAI.

    The Totally Terrific Tomato Festival August 18 and 19 at the National Botanic Gardens, Dublin. An exhibition of tomato cultivars as well as their relatives – tobacco, potatoes, chillies, petunias and even deadly nightshade – will be displayed in the Teak House for a fortnight. There will be a series of talks – Tomato Tales – and amongst the speakers will be tomato-addict Nicky Kyle and Dr Matthew Jebb, Director of the National Botanic Gardens, For more information see nickykylegardening.com

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